If you are on the island and want to experience the authentic spirit of eastern Brač in a single day, prepare for a journey through places where history is carved in stone, the sea smells of salt, and quiet and serenity dominate the landscapes.
From Selca, through Sumartin and Povlja, to the picturesque Selački zaseoci and Novo Selo – every step takes you through centuries of tradition, art, and local life.
Selca: A Town of Monuments and Poetry
Your first stop is Selca, a place burned by the Italian army during World War II, which today proudly holds the title of the cultural and stone heart of the island.
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A Town of Monuments
Selca is unique for having the highest number of monuments per capita in Croatia. Sculptures and memorials on almost every corner honour notable figures:
- Stjepan Radić – leader of the Croatian Peasant Movement
- Leo Tolstoy – Russian literary giant
- Dr. Matej Bencur (Martin Kukučin) – Slovak writer and doctor who lived and worked in Selca
Pope John Paul II - Hans-Dietrich Genscher and Alois Mock – politicians who advocated for Croatia’s international recognition
- Franjo Tuđman – the first president of Croatia
Croatia rediviva and the Wall of Poetry
Every August, Selca becomes Croatia’s poetic capital. The Croatia rediviva festival gathers poets from across the country and the diaspora. Winning verses are carved into the Wall of Poetry, creating a stone anthology that preserves the spirit of the town across decades.
The Parish Church of Christ the King – “The Brač Cathedral”
The dominant landmark of Selca is the parish church of Christ the King, the tallest on the island. Built from white Brač stone, it houses an impressive statue of Christ the King by Ivan Meštrović, cast from World War II shell casings – a powerful symbol connecting wartime tragedy with the desire for peace.
The Church of St. Nicholas
On the hill between Selca and Sumartin lies the 10th-century pre-Romanesque Church of St. Nicholas. Its simple stone form contrasts the monumental parish church, offering a walk of quiet reflection and introspective calm.
Sumartin: Fishing, Innovation, and Beautiful Beaches
A short drive brings you to Sumartin, founded in 1646 when refugees from the Turkish invasions found shelter on Brač. Today, while best known for its ferry connection to Makarska, the town hides a rich history and cultural treasures.
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The Parish Church of St. Martin and the Franciscan Monastery
At the heart of Sumartin stands the parish church of St. Martin, accompanied by a 17th-century Franciscan monastery. Its most famous resident was Andrija Kačić-Miošić (1704–1760), author of Razgovor ugodni naroda slovinskoga, a collection of poems that shaped Dalmatian cultural awareness for centuries. In front of the church is the “Footprint of St. Martin” plaque, adding symbolic meaning to the space.
Lučica Sanctuary
In the peaceful Lučica bay hides a natural cave – a refuge for Sumartin residents during World War II. An altar dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary still stands today, a place of quiet prayer and echoes of past times.
Kuća od 5 dolori – Mario Puratić Center
Sumartin is also home to the interpretive centre Kuća od 5 dolori, dedicated to Mario Puratić, inventor of the revolutionary Power Block fishing winch. The centre showcases the life of local fishermen and labourers, the town’s traditions, and Puratić’s impact on global fishing. The name comes from the Canadian 5-dollar bill depicting his winch.
Lunch at Restaurant Bilin
Nearby Puntinak, a modern settlement with hidden pebble beaches, is ideal for a short swim before lunch.
Restaurant Bilin offers local specialities with a modern twist: fresh fish, homegrown vegetables, and top-quality Brač olive oil – the perfect pause before continuing your exploration.
Povlja: Tranquillity, Legends, and Slow Travel
The next stop is Povlja, nestled in a deep bay on the eastern coast. There is no crowd or rush here – ideal for a slow pace and savouring the authentic Brač.
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The Viewpoint
On the way to the village, stop at a viewpoint offering breathtaking views of Povlja, the bay, and the Brač Channel, with Mount Biokovo rising in the distance.
Parish Church of St. John the Baptist and Early Christian Basilica
At the centre of Povlja stands the church dedicated to the town’s patron, containing parts of a 6th-century Early Christian basilica. Preserved elements include apses, walls, the main entrance lintel, and three chapels.
Povaljski prag and Povaljska listina
The basilica houses a piece of limestone, called Povaljski Prag (Povlja Lintel), the oldest epigraphic monument in Croatian and Cyrillic (1184), and the Charter of Povlja (Povaljska listina, 1250), a property deed of the Benedictine monastery, now kept in Pučišća.
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Monuments to St. John of Povlja and the Donkey
Legend tells that St. John walked on water and chased away the plague; his footprints carved in stone along the path to Točinjak Bay mark his miraculous presence. There is also a monument to the donkey, symbolising Brač’s connection to nature and tradition.
Novo Selo and the Selački Zaseoci: An Authentic Ending
On your way back, make time for Novo Selo and the Selački zaseoci.
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Novo Selo sits picturesquely on a hillside, known for its open-air gallery – a series of sculptures by Frane Antonijević – and the intimate parish church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Through the Selački zaseoci (Nagorinac, Nakal, Osritke, Smrčevik, and Nasela) live around fifty residents. Vineyards and olive groves surround fields where goats, sheep, and donkeys roam freely – a true journey through Brač as it has been for centuries, in peace, quiet, and harmony with nature.
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Eastern Brač is a journey through centuries and generations, from the sculptures and poetry of Selca, through Mario Puratić’s innovations in Sumartin, to the legends and quiet of Povlja and the Selački hamlets.
Here, time is measured by the breath of the sea, the whisper of the wind, and steps along stone paths, offering an authentic Brač experience that lingers in the heart.
